Humulus lupulus extract
, 2 min reading time
, 2 min reading time
Humulus lupulus is a flowering plant, also known as common hops, it is native to temperate regions of Northern hemisphere. The plant extract and the strobiles of cumulus lupulus are particularly useful in cosmetics. Hops has been used for beer making for years and cultivated for the same reason. It contains resinous bitter compound humulone, lupulone, xanthium, humulene, tannins, polyphenols, protein, waxes, steroids, bitter acids called alpha acids and beta acids, cellulose, pectins, etc. The extract is a golden yellow colored liquid.
Humulus lupulus extract is mainly antimicrobial in nature. Medicinally it is used to treat various skin and hair ailments. For cosmetics, this property has a dual purpose. First, it also helps preserve formulation free from any microbial contamination. Second, it helps skin get rid of harmful bacteria that can cause acne or body odor. When the extract is applied on skin it forms a layer on the skin that protects the skin from outer environment, it preserves skin’s moisture and makes it available for skin cells. So, the skin remains moisturized and soft. It also helps remove the dead skin layer from the epidermis and cleanses the skin. It is used in skincare and haircare formulations.
If life gives the cosmetic industry lemon, it makes lemon fruit extract. As to why, we can write here extremely similar things to our shiny description of orange fruit extract. Being both of them citruses, they contain very similar active compounds with very similar (potential) effects on the skin.
Just like orange fruit, lemon fruit also contains citric acid so it is commonly used as a natural, mild exfoliating agent. If this is the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruit extracts such as bilberry, sugar cane, orange, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix.
But, citrus fruits are chemically complex mixtures with a bunch of other active components such as vitamin C, flavonoids, phenolics, carbohydrates and essential oil (this latter one coming from the rind of the fruit, but still present in some amount in the fruit extract). These have the potential to give lemon extract antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-dandruff, venotonic and moisturizing properties, but the essential oil also brings some questionable compounds such as fragrance allergen limonene or phototoxic compound bergaptene. If your skin is sensitive, be careful with citrus extracts.